Julia Burdet | 7 August 2024
Deep cerulean waters glinting in the southern Mediterranean sun… dramatic coastlines punctuated with terracotta roofed villas clinging impossibly to the cliffs and tiny chapels built directly into the rock… sandy horseshoe coves lined with loungers and striped umbrellas, with yachts and jaunty blue sailing boats bobbing at the water’s edges… vintage Cinquecento cars rattling around the precipitous winding hillside roads where street vendors appear at every turn, their wooden carts overflowing with rugged-skin lemons the size of grapefruits. Bright colours, powerful scents, succulent flavours and vibrant sounds saturate the Amalfi Coast, where every moment can become a memory to last a lifetime.
This is the UNESCO World Heritage Site known not just for its stunning landscapes, romantic literary and film history and the simple fish and vegetable based cucina of the Southern Italian seaside, but also for its local wares – limoncello liqueur from those famous citrus fruits, salty anchovies, thick handmade paper and colourful ceramic tiles handcrafted in Vietri sul Mare, one of the most delightful villages in Italy, also known for the local legend of a terrible dragon who once hid in the valley, giving its name to the river Dragone.
Vietri is not alone in the catwalk of charm; nearby Atrani, the smallest municipality in Italy with a footprint of just 0.12 square kilometres, is also a winner of the coastline beauty contest, its promenade of pretty houses raised in a semi-circle around the tiny bay on huge stone arches, overlooking the fine sandy beach and rows of little fishing boats.
One of the most celebrated of Italian coastal towns, Positano, is a jewel in the Amalfi Coast ring. Historically home to music composers and film directors and immortalised in film after sumptuous film, this exquisite demilune of breathtaking allure was the inspiration for the fictional town of Mongibello in Patricia Highsmith’s novel, The Talented Mr Ripley.
It’s just a few miles around the bay to the east though, along the ‘road of the thousand bends’ that snakes around the Coast, where the true local life can be lived – away from the tourist trails, in the fishing village of Praiano. This is where the divine has made its mark with the Path of the Gods hiking trail, named after the Roman temples that punctuated the hillside in ancient times. The path loops around the village on the steep rocky cliffs, the gifts from the gods the stunning views onto the church of San Luca, the pretty winding streets below and the rippling expanse of waters – the name ‘Praiano’ itself derives from the Latin for ‘open sea’. In this quaint and quiet village of just over 2000 inhabitants are authentic trattorias serving catch of the day delicacies, where the chatter in the area’s dialect confirms that this is where locals will come to escape the summer influx of visitors.
Set among the whitewashed houses on the stepped hills is a villa acquired last year by Orla Collins, then completely redesigned and refurbished to embody the charm and magic of this enchanting place. Casa Grá is now a stunning interior designed home with panoramic views over the sparkling Tyrrhenian sea. Its name is taken from the Irish word for ‘love’, inspired by Orla’s Irish roots, and in its every corner this home shows love for its enchanting surroundings. Throughout the villa are subtle references to the captivating coastline and an attention to detail and beguiling creativity exemplifying Orla’s design style.
Hand-painted ceramic floor tiles in a typical Amalfi majolica design, bespoke paint colours chosen to reflect the sun-drenched saturated hues of the vistas and exuberant wallpapers bursting with flora and fauna form the framework for meticulously sourced antique, mid-century and contemporary furniture, lighting and decorative pieces.
In the coral painted sitting room, two beautifully restored pearl grey wingback Deco armchairs flank a Lucite, chrome and brass coffee table. A 1930s mirror inlaid with deep blue lapis lazuli stones catches the sunlight in the double aspect main bedroom, where sheer wavy ombré drapes reflect the white flecks on waves in the sea beyond. The highlights and ephemera of the beach are picked up in the lime green crystal table lamps on shell bedside tables by famed Italian sculptor and designer Giovanni Gariboldi in the guest bedroom.
From a vintage weave pattern Murano glass pendant and Panton-style red floor lamp, to Deco Murano glass and custom curved brass wall lights and a mottled blue glass globe, the lighting casts a soft glow across the saturated hues of the walls, highlighting the textures and shades of the canvas of painstakingly sourced furnishings and eclectic artworks.
Outdoor living is one of the mainstays of the Amalfi Coast, and at Casa Grá the living is easy, in summertime and through the seasons. The centrepiece of the dining room, with direct views of the spectacular scenery from the glazed arches, is a dining table hand-painted with a view of neighbouring Positano. The terrace is a heaven for suncatchers and leads to a delightful raised lawned garden enclosed with bespoke decorative ironwork, offering respite from the Mediterranean sun under the pretty white strawberry and delicately scented orange trees.
Orla’s Casa Grá is an ode to the unique beauty of the Amalfi Coast and testament to the depth and passion of the Purple Design ethos.